Narmada Parikrama on a Cycle: A Woman’s Story of Self-Discovery

Narmade har – Prachi Joshi Harshe -Pune

Pune: Jyoti Bhakta, a resident of Pune, is just like you and me. After dedicating 23 years to her career while managing her household effectively, she reached a point in her life where she began to experience empty nest syndrome. Upon turning fifty and with her son having completed his education , Jyoti felt compelled to break free from her job routine and explore what she truly wanted to achieve in life. With each passing day, her desire for self-discovery intensified, and after considerable reflection, she made the courageous choice to leave her corporate job in 2017.
Initially, Jyoti was unsure of how to embark on this journey of self-discovery. Throughout her fifty seven years, she seldom had the opportunity to reflect on her own needs, often feeling that considering herself would be unfair to her family. Thus, she needed to learn how to ask herself: ‘What do I enjoy? What path should I take?’ Following her departure from her job, Jyoti traveled extensively both within India and internationally, yet she still struggled to find anything that brought her joy.

During that period, the world was grappling with the Covid crisis. However, during this time, Jyoti discovered her true companion: a bicycle! As she began exercising at home during lockdown, she took her first cycling ride of 16 kilometers with her friend Ekadashi. Although the initial ride left her quite fatigued, she eagerly anticipated cycling again the following day. She soon found joy in cycling, surpassing her previous distance by an additional 10 kilometers. She started to take her exercise routine more seriously. By 2021, on her birthday, she celebrated a remarkable cycling journey from Pune to Panvel with her friend, Bhakti Mandke. Over time, cycling became a vital aspect of her life. She joined a like-minded cycling group, which led to her embarking on a long journey from Pune to Sundarban, covering 2100 kilometers in 16 days. Following that, she tackled long-distance cycling at high altitudes in the Himalayas, including routes like Srinagar to Leh to South pulu, as well as journeys across Tamil Nadu, Melghat, Konkan, and Shegaon. Her strength grew significantly as she regularly climbed and descended Sinhagad Fort. In addition to cycling, she began trekking and successfully completed the Everest Base Camp Trek in 2024, which stands at an altitude of 17,560 feet.

After extensively cycling, Jyoti decided to undertake the ‘Narmada Parikrama’ by bicycle. It was November 2024 when she planned this journey, aiming to start the 3,000-kilometer trek in the last week of January 2025, with the goal of finishing within approximately forty days. She intended to ride about 90 to 100 kilometers each day. Jyoti not only honed her cycling skills but also mentally prepared herself for the parikrama. As no one was willing to join her on this endeavor, she opted to undertake it solo.
Throughout the parikrama, she needed to transport her own gear on her bicycle, which required her to carefully weigh her luggage and acquire skills in carrying it, as well as in fixing punctures and performing basic bike repairs. Additionally, she created her own route map by watching YouTube videos, consulting experienced individuals, and engaging in discussions with them, choosing routes that would avoid the highways when possible.
Jyoti was scheduled to depart from Pune to Indore on January 22. Although there were expectations for her to travel alone, she felt a strong affection and attraction towards Narmada Maayya. Just a couple of days prior to her departure, Shirish Lonkar from the cycling group agreed to accompany Jyoti on her parikrama.
On January 23, they chose to commence the parikrama at Mamleshwar, located on the southern bank of the Narmada, marking the beginning of a remarkable bicycle journey. This trip was not merely about covering 3000 kilometers; it also involved exploring a sacred river, immersing themselves in the culture and traditions along the banks of Narmada Maiyya, and seeking inner peace and transformation. Along the way, Jyoti and Shirish encountered three additional cyclists—Gajendra Mandloi, Sandeep Birla, and Sandeep Irla.

Throughout the entire journey, all five cyclists remained united. Initially, Jyoti had planned to embark on this adventure alone until just two days before setting off. However, her determination was unwavering. Perhaps it was Shirish’s positive spirit, along with the trio whom Jyoti affectionately refers to as Brahma-Vishnu-Mahesh, sent by Maiyya, formed a connection with one another, marking the beginning of their journey through quaint villages. Significant historical sites, such as the Samadhi of the revered Bajirao in Raverkhedi, embodied a rich cultural heritage and instilled a sense of pride. Encountering the magnificent temple of humanity, Ms. Bharti Thakur’s ‘Narmadalay,’ felt akin to visiting a revered saint. Such sights and experiences catalyze personal change and transformation. For Jyoti, this Parikrama of Narmada Mayya transcended mere travel; it was a deeply personal journey.
In a modest home within a small village, a woman was trimming the bushes in her yard. She approached her and inquired, “Could I have some black tea?” She kindly agreed and offered him some chivda alongside the tea. In their conversation, it became clear that the chivda was the last of the household’s food, yet the woman’s joy in serving the pilgrims was evident on her face. Jyoti realized that she had truly grasped the essence of generosity. By serving the pilgrims, she was effectively serving Narmada Maayya, the one who cares for everyone. This realization led her to encounter remarkable individuals throughout her journey, all of whom shared the same commitment to service. The tradition of the Narmada Parikrama has been upheld for centuries, and pilgrims are welcomed without any bias. While pilgrims come and go, the villagers maintain this tradition unwaveringly across generations. It’s clear that both the wealthy and the impoverished engage in this service selflessly and without ulterior motives. It’s also apparent that poverty can manifest not only in material circumstances but also in thoughts and mindset, a notion that resonates deeply in this context. Jyoti expressed with conviction that she might have discovered a deeper sense of self through this parikrama. In the context of the parikrama, a female is referred to as “Maiya,” while a male is called “Maharaj.” The affectionate call of “Maiya” continues to resonate in Jyoti’s heart a month later. Navigating through the fields and underbrush proved to be quite challenging. The bicycles would often lose traction in the mud, and navigating the slopes of the ghats proved to be quite exhausting. However, while chanting ‘Narmada Har’, one could sense the presence of Narmada Maiyya. The weariness that accumulated throughout the day would dissipate after a restful night, allowing everyone to resume cycling with renewed enthusiasm each morning. The initial energy and excitement that marked the start of the journey persisted until the very end, thanks to the blessings of the Narmada Maiyya. At one point during the journey, Jyoti experienced significant pain in her leg, but she persevered, motivated by her determination to see her goal through. Little by little, they drew closer to the river’s source, with Omkareshwar just a few kilometers away. It was an exhilarating sensation to know that the compassionate Narmada Maa had supported her children in completing their parikrama. The journey concluded on February 25, with a total distance of 3,000 kilometers covered in 34 days.
Through her parikrama, Jyoti discovered how to find happiness by reducing her personal desires, the importance of serving with dedication, and the significance of having faith in one’s objectives. Even after returning to Pune, having completed the parikrama, Jyoti continues to feel the presence of the Narmada within her heart, inspiring her with renewed hope and a fresh perspective on life.
Jyoti passionately expresses that everyone should seize every opportunity to protect rivers and engage with the vibrant culture and traditions found along their banks.
Jyoti’s journey around the Narmada transcends the tale of a woman’s cycling adventure; it embodies a process of self-discovery, moral reflection, and the beginning of a new chapter in her life.